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DIY Copper And Sand Heater | No Electricity Needed For Greenhouse Heat

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KEEPER
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Published on 18 Nov 2023 / In Film & Animation

Heating a room or a greenhouse can become expensive quickly. This sand and copper powered heater can heat for days using a vegetable shortening double or quadruple wick candle. Temperatures can exceed 500 F or 273 C for extended periods of time. This heater is easy to set up and cost less than $20 for most of the materials needed. I'll show in detail how to assemble and add safety features to keep your sand heater safe and running efficiently.

✅Check This Out:
Heat Your Greenhouse With Cat Litter || 5 Great Methods: https://youtu.be/hZXXEOdiUys
Heating Your Greenhouse Without Electricity | Cheap And Easy DIY: https://youtu.be/xRzVCu94-mQ

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5-Quart Galvanized Pail Beer Bucket 9x9x7 inches: https://amzn.to/3SHpPqz

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3 Comments

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Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson 1 year ago

I used to design and build furnaces and their burners.....

I could easily turn sand into liquid glass and 3" down, it's at room temperature.

This is just dumb.

Why? The only thing that heats the green house is the candle.

The heat can either go directly into the room, OR it can go into a heat sink / diffuser, which then directly into the room.

It achieves nothing - it's just a pointless intermediate step, in the transfer of energy between the heat source and the icy cold universe .

If you want a more diffuse heat disribution - just get your candle, and pop up a kettle full of water, or bucket of water, or a 12" square 1/4" plate and stick up up 6 - 8" over the candle....

Or use a basic small fan to circulate the air around the hot house, to break up the stratification, and the ground will become the heat sink...

The best way to improve the candle situation is to use that fuels heat energy to preheat the air going to the flame and to create a neutral flame, so as to get the most heat from the chemical energy in the oil, and maybe dump the hippy wick / biodynamic candle shit.... and then double skin the hot house... to keep more heat in / slow the transfer of heat out...

Dull yellow oil flames are a cold low combustion efficiency chemical reaction..

These hippy cunts don't do maths... never study thermodynamics / insulation / combustion process's - nothing - it's just stupid "wishful thinking"....

THE DOUG ANTHONY ALLSTARS - I Wanna Spill the Blood of a Hippie -1990-

https://www.mgtow.tv/v/hhKBj8

To show you how mean I really am.....

Calculate the fuel consumption over 4 hours to figure out the amount of oil being used per minute.

Just weigh the jar.

Calculate the molecular formulation of the oil.... the carbon the hydrogen ratio.

Calculate under perfect combustion what the ratio of oxygen is for the hydrogen and carbon chains..

Work out the heat being emitted.

Work out the energy value of acetylene, and the gas flow rate through a 1mm hole to achieve the same energy value as the oil.

Use a proper acetylene welding torch - and POW! you can punch a hole through 1mm steel plate, using he same amount of energy that is available in the candle oil - just by gassifying it and mixing it with pure oxygen, instead of only 21% atmospheric oxygen.

So preheating the oil with the flames on energy, and mixing it in a turbulent flow, means that while your heating up the 79% nitrogen which does nothing useful, your mixture settings means that all of the carbon and hydrogen in the oil, will be reacted with the oxygen available in the atmosphere......

Off the top of my head - I think the cold yellow oil flame is around 800*C, a clean burning properly mixed up oil flame is around 1800*C and a pure oxygen and oil flame is around 3200*C....

If you go into all the science and maths of petrol and diesel engines, while the fuels have a similar energy conent - the diesel motor gets about 2 x as much power from it's fuel as a petrol engine - high compression - preheat, high turbulence in the combustion chamber (mixing and oxygenation), and a whole heap of other things....

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KEEPER 1 year ago

Holy hell lol, that sounds like it'll be too hot in the room it might actually melt the room lol.

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Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson 1 year ago

@KEEPER: Naaa jesting aside..... There is plenty of the idiots with bright ideas that are based upon bullshit, all over the planet and in the internets... Mr Hippy there, is just doing something that achieves nothing, wastes time and resources and makes nothing at all, run any better..... By preheating your air from the combustion, and introducing a swirl across a shallow flaming pool of oil, instead of from a wick, you could get around 2 or 3 times the heat energy out of the oil, as you would with a wick. Have a look at these... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF1kuk0OEdg - and there is a heap of links in it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukiCqNqq3YE

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Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson 1 year ago

@KEEPER: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juRv4QOCI60 ---

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KEEPER 1 year ago

@Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson: very cool indeed.

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KEEPER 1 year ago

lol, i'm so obsessed with watching stuff like this.

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WMHarrison94 1 year ago

It seemed like an easy bway to heat up an area if "Oh shit, nuclear... no more electricity and circuits!" Or you live in Sweden with an all women guberment in the dead of winter "blizzard!"

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Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson 1 year ago

@WMHarrison94: I did a flood mitigation study - all 120 pages of it... The flood waters came down the valley, along the flood plains, hit several KM of railway embankment, and then rose several meters to top that, and then eventually washed most of the embankment away. I put it forward amongst other things, that the railway line did not need to be kept open - the trains were comparatively rare (great grain trains) and the floods usually lasted a week to 10 days every 10 years on average... So the embankment could be dropped, and the tracks laid about 1 foot or 1/3 of a meter, above the ground, across the valley - this was to stop the flooding backing up behind the embankment and filling the town and area, with a meter of two of flood water. I wiped out the consultants who bullshitted their way through a great deal of it, and I nailed the moronic head of the committee - who was too fucking stupid to understand that the flood water would run from 7 to 10 days - usually.... it simply backed up behind the embankment filled up the town, and then went on it's merry way over the embankment washing that away (eventually) ..... and continuing down stream at it's usual rate of knots... Sort of like turning on a tap in the garden, and watching the water run away, and then sticking a bucket under it, the bucket fills up, and then the water over flows it and contunues to run out onto the ground at exctly the same rate... Well this "heating system" is literally a dumb idea that wastes the time making it and using it... The heat from the candle can either heat up the hot house OR it flows into the bucket apparatus, which then flows into the room.... it makes absolutely no difference. The only difference that can be made is building a better burner that has a higher chemical conversion ratio of carbon and hydrogen to oxygen. In a simple way, lets say the cold oily candle flame, which is carbon rich - puts out 100W of heat... alter the combustion process and you have 200 - 300 W of heat... and plenty of clean CO2, instead of soot... to feed the plants with...

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Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson 1 year ago

@WMHarrison94: "instead of soot" = "Instead of uncombusted carbon"

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