Fundamentals of Ballistics

Yes - a lot of peopel nut things out to the Nth degree - so many details and to such high precision..... They packed in a whole heap of information to this video - but only little bits about each detail... They didn't say much about the corelieas effect.... Regardless there is a staggering amount of smarts in this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jX7dcl_ERNs ==== https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJhgZBn-LHg ===== https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQNCLbkBZpg ===== https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq_PDaYclAw ======== https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeY9tY9vKgs ======== I have gone into overwhelm... too much cleveness for a mere mortal in one day...

@Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson: lol...thanks brother!

So so it is relatively easy to make a good reliable safe gun, from some galvanised iron water pipe with a screw on end... Low pressures, slow burning powders, long barrel, low accuracy and short range.... then you add in high rates of sustained fire, a SAFE and STRONG breech and barrel and the need for high accuracy and a long range - and EVERYTHING changes and by a lot.... And if you notice that when the Russians are showing off their field artillery - with HUGE barrels - the hole up the middle and LONG barrels and 1.2 meter long cartridges of powder about 30cm in diameter etc... these shoot "really hard" like giant high powered sporting rifles... "The Cunning Rooshians arn't fucking around".... Like there is SO much smartness everywhere - even the $5 basic desk / pocket calculator with 6 or 8 functions - they are phenomonal amounts of cleverness..... If you can get a low powered microscope and look at some clear 5mm LED's that are made to emit different colours... and have a look at ALL of the cleverness going on inside that little piece of epoxy... All of the LED's are very clever and they are ALL very different in many ways.. And then look at what is inside a five dollar 5mw laser pointer diode...

@bigintol03: We will stick to the standard size 5mm LED's - but they have power ranges from 5 millicancella to 20,000 millicandella, and the come in a whole heap of colours - get the clear epoxy, but the colour ranges of light produced... So the chemistry of the Light Emitting materials and the mixtures of them, and the maximum forward voltages they run on vary considerably... and they have to dissipate the heat at the junction, through the electrodes and leads.... AND under a 200 x microscope, you can SEE all of the externally visible, internal details... They come in red, white, blue, yellow, green, and a whole heap of other specialist application colours... https://www.jaycar.com.au/whit....e-5mm-led-4000mcd-ro

@bigintol03: And I am the only person I have ever met, who has been able to run a 2.2V (maximum) green LED, on 310 V, with it barely lighting up... There is magic in that... AND if you drive them at no more than around 80% of their maximum voltage, they are correspondingly less bright, but the resistance drops off at the junction as the temperature rises after this, and so you can run them in series as their own resistors... ... AND if an LED has a mean or average time until failure of say 30,000 hours, by under driving them (lower voltage) they can be made to last almost forever.... like 300,000 hours... Like if they were super bright whites that ran on 5V, by running them at 3.7V they would be a little dimmer, but they would last forever...

@Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson: And now I know! Thank you Shane!

@bigintol03: OK the LED resistanaces in series - You can get RED leds that run on 2.2V - to run on 13V DC (car battery) by putting a resistor in series to make a voltage drop... OR you can run say 6 or 7 or 8 LED's in series, which works really well for applications that have stable power supplies... If you need to light up a big area and only have a high voltage supply, you can string the LED's in series, and run the strings in parallel, to get the numbers up, or you can buy a sometimes expensive LED driver... But you need a STABLE power supply - the mains 240 V RMS x 1.4 gives you the peak suinosidal voltage of 310V, and the mains has a legislated upper and lower voltage - that it must run in, so it doesn't fuck anything running on it.... But MUST does not mean DOES... So allowing for over voltage, means your LED's in series, must be set up to cope with the over voltages, which means they are dimmer...