The Ultimate HOMEMADE Rust Remover (Better than EvapoRust)

Yeah make a note of the solutions, and then go buy the chemicals and give it a try. I for one - if they all work around the same, would go for the tamest alkali - bi carbonate of soda or washing soda and citric acid....... BUT he has given very specific amounts for all the chemicals, which leads me to think that he knows about buffering acids and alkalis and coming up with the right solutions.... AND although you don't live in Australia, we have Bunnings - a big chain store - and they sell this, https://www.bunnings.com.au/di....ggers-2kg-rust-and-s - IF you read the Material Safety Data Sheets, they make references - although vague, to the chemicals in them that blind you and poison you and strip your skin off.... That one is 2Kg of dry Oxalic Acid, and it pays to read these sheets.... There are rust removers, and then there are rust converters... A lot of them have phosphoric acid, tannic acid, formic acid etc., ALSO especially use eye and breathing protection.... a cross breeze blowing from your left or right... Don't inhale shit.... If you want to know why I wheeze....

AND if you have a lot to do, you can pick up bulk at pool supply stores.... big hardware stores etc.. industrial suppliers tend to only sell in 200 liter drums, or by the 25 Kg bags or by the pallet load.... SO supermarket quantaties - might be just fine for small jobs..

Coles $3 for 75 grams https://www.coles.com.au/produ....ct/mckenzie%27s-citr - swimming pool supplies $22 - $28 for 5 Kg from a health food shop.... https://www.blants.com.au/product/citric-acid-5kg/

Same goes for sodium hydroxide..... buy in bulk at the pool or hardware supplies ///////////// https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_carbonate ------------- Sodium carbonate is also used as a relatively strong base in various fields. As a common alkali, it is preferred in many chemical processes because it is cheaper than sodium hydroxide and far safer to handle. Its mildness especially recommends its use in domestic applications. For example, it is used as a pH regulator to maintain stable alkaline conditions necessary for the action of the majority of photographic film developing agents. It is also a common additive in swimming pools and aquarium water to maintain a desired pH and carbonate hardness (KH).

https://yandex.com/search/?tex....t=washing+soda+remov

This video is actually very good.... he is a brilliant instructor and he lays out all the issues very well. I learned a lot..... I will go with the washing soda, and citric acid. In modest bulk amounts, from a pool or hardware or retail supplier.....

I am using this to convert the surface rust on the car ----------- (no primer) https://www.unipro.com.au/prod....ucts/preparation/rus ---------------- Safety: Clean up with water. Remove stains with lemon juice or household bleach. Feronite is mildly acidic. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Wash Feronite from skin with soap and water. Treat splashes in the eyes by washing immediately with water and eye wash solution. If swallowed seek medical advice. Do not induce vomiting. Cautions: Read more details on the bottle before using. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN. Preparation: Remove oil or grease with solvent or detergent. Remove loose or flaky rust and paint by scraper, wire brush, or wet sand blast. Wash surface with clean water and leave damp. An ideal surface has an overall covering of firmly attached rust. Application: On heavy rust, if any rust is still visible, wash down and repeat Feronite treatment. Mix Feronite thoroughly by shaking or stirring. Apply Feronite onto dampened surface preferably with a stiff bristle brush to assist penetration. Re-wet the surface with a fine light spray of water after 1/2 to 1 hour, especially if surface is drying quickly in warm weather. Surface turns blue-black as Feronite reacts. Allow 24hours for reaction to be completed. Finishing: Feronite will protect the surface for up to 12 weeks before painting. Remove any residual black dust by wiping with a wet or dry cloth, or by hosing. Allow surface to dry thoroughly. Apply first paint coat of zinc chromate or equivalent metal primer, followed by undercoat and top coat.

The Tannic Acid Rust Converter, is not a long term soak and cleaner, it's an inlocation rust converter..... for light surface rust.